Tuesday, November 3, 2020

So, that's why it's called New England


Anchored in Amherst in a sea of continental Covid, limiting our ability to travel, we have explored what we safely could, either from the car or on a trail. Locally, we started with the Eric Carle museum, by reservation, a highly anticipated trip for Ione and her hungry hungry Caterpillar, Bonnie. 



Then we hit the literary hiking trails; https://www.amherstma.gov/DocumentCenter/View/609/literary_guide?bidId=


Of course we started with the Emily Dickinson



Followed with the Bob M. McClung, named for a naturalist and children's book author who wrote "Bufo: The story of a toad".  Based on the length of some of these trails, most of these authors were not long winded.



Wrapping up with  the Robert Frost trail, where we took the road not taken and got lost ending up un-poetically in a cornfield. 


Which was consistent with other literary hiking adventures we have taken through England's Lake District getting lost between Ruskin and Wordsworth.

After we wrapped up Amherst, we started to venture out in the Pioneer Valley  and continued to feel some similarities with England and not based just on our confusion on hiking trails. Which makes sense considering most of these towns were founded in the mid to late 1600's by the English.  We felt like we were driving on the right side of the street in Scarborough https://thechosenfugue.blogspot.com/2018/10/scarborough-fair-moor-or-less.html or Cambridge, UK  xhttps://thechosenfugue.blogspot.com/2018/10/college-tour-and-cotswolds.html  seeing towns with cemeteries wedged between houses with renegade tombstones scattered throughout parking lots; beautiful old buildings turned into trendy stores; and iconic colleges.

                                              Stately home? Church? College? Urban Outfitters.


 Smith College in Northampton, the Encino or Studio City of the Pioneer Valley

                Lively street in Northampton, not to be confused with Easthampton, Westhampton or Southampton                        

Lots of old small village towns, each with a seemingly separate town of the same name except with a East, West, South or North prefix, and all with only 3 different street names-Main, East and Pleasant. 

We were excited to go to Holyoke and see the man-made canals which provided hydro-electro power for the city's manufacturing. Paper mills, cotton, thread, silk and wire factories made Holyoke an "economic powerhouse" 150 years ago, Both the mills and the town looked a bit dried up.  But we actually seeing the canals at their low point as we saw them just after the annual draining of the canals.  Timing is everything! We left equally drained of enthusiasm. Apparently Holyoke has also drained the "l" in it's name, as we learned from locals it's pronounced Ho-yoke.

                                                      giving LA river some competition. 

Another local highlight was Shelbourne Falls, this area seems to be populated with similar gems. 

Famous Shelbourne glacial holes



Famous Bridge of Flowers

Looking over the Connecticut River in Shelbourne Falls

And followed up that half hour by a trip to a combination apple orchard and sculpture garden in Northampton, but unfortunately no apple picking as windstorms destroyed the apple crop (2020, strikes again)


Having hit most of the local pandemic-safe highlights, we were now ready to go east and head to the coast through some more unoriginally named towns. https://thechosenfugue.blogspot.com/2018/10/wonders-man-made-and-natural.htmlAnd since we were traveling, we kept our tradition of sampling the foods of an area at least once a country, and to us, New England is another country.  Our first try was on at the witching and fishing towns of Salem and Gloucester which ended up as most of our food excursions, failing and going back home and eating home made tortillas.  


Cove in Gloucester
 

Two cormorants enjoy the Gloucester view  
                

Next coastal trip to another town named after an English one was to Ipswich- another well preserved colonial fishing town with a rich industrial, history. Feeling repetitive. 



Historical Murals are always appreciated

Before the Ipswich trip, we actually planned ahead and found a classic waterside take-out to get 3 different fish soups (we sampled Chowdah! Chowdah! and Chowdah! - All three pretty damn good.) 


The view from our table at JT Farnums which means our car

The main reason for the Ipswich trip, though, was to pick up cats for Ione. Pip and Posy, another literary allusion .https://nosycrow.com/series/pip-and-posy/



The next big excursion covered 6 states over 6 hours.  Amherst to Kaiser in Kensington, MD, much more than a stone's throw away but necessary for kidney stone follow-up and flu shots.  https://thechosenfugue.blogspot.com/2020/08/driving-to-end-of-rainbow.html

Drive-thru tourism acting like locals on the turnpikes and toll roads with our own EZpass.

The Connecticut turnpike/highway/expressway (very confusing on the names here) wins for presentation.  Beautiful overpasses in a range of styles, well placed travel plazas- nicely named and tasteful bland architecture all wrapped up with a plethora of trees, just starting to change colors. Apparently, this road, Connecticut 15, Merritt Parkway is well appreciated https://www.knowol.com/information/connecticut/merritt-parkway-bridges-pictures-history/Considering we did not leave the car through the drive, we appreciated it. Or maybe it was appreciated because we were not able to leave the car until we rolled to our destination.  

Another perk to this trip was that we stopped to see Nick's sister on the New Jersey shore.   Beachside towns share some type of cosmic connections;  Gloucester MA and the Jersey shore mirroring their relatives across the sea, walking along the promenade  we could have been in Eastbourne or Brighton, UK. https://thechosenfugue.blogspot.com/2018/10/bonfires-bandstands-and-beaches-in.html

                                                                         New Jersey Shore

On our return back, via Costco in Springfield, MA, it almost felt like going home to our hovel. Our basement apartment has mellowed with time as we watch the sunset lights and changing of the colors on the trees well framed by the ground level windows. The changing of the leaves is spectacular, the air has a bite you don't taste in the West.  

Winter is coming, we are curious to meet the challenge of a true sustained snowy winter and see if our wimpy west coast winter clothes (triple layered) work.  Although, the heater works, controlled by the upstairs inhabitants, reaching highs never experienced in our own home. We have had some new unwanted roommates, house centipedes. As with most roommates, they are creepy, disgusting  but these guys move very fast. This is a stock photo, because they don't photograph well from the bottom of our shoes. 

We hear mice in our ceiling heater vents but haven’t caught any so we moved the humane traps to our daughter’s attic, and in a month have caught 23 mice that we then release into the woods. 
Hence, welcome Pip and Posy, since their arrivals- no mice. 

So we got tested after our travels (negative), quarantined our 2 weeks and then returned to our quarantine-routine, our bubble life in Amherst, living the motto when in Rome avoid the Romans.

After 4 months here, it is hard to feel like we know the area. We can't visit most of the many museums in the area. Half the population (students) are missing. But the longer we have been in Western Mass  the more we are appreciating the beauty of the Berkshires but still longing to be home on the West Coast.  Besides Western Mass kinda sounds like a medical condition and while  you can take the girl out of Western Mass, can you take the Western Mass out of the girl?


                                          Another view/hike along the Connecticut River



 



 

 

 

 

Tuesday, August 18, 2020

Our year of living dangerously continues

Amherst is located in Western Massachusetts, which is known for the close proximity of five well 
regarded colleges: Amherst College, Smith College, Mt. Holyoke College, Hampshire College  
and the flagship of the state university system U Mass, Amherst.  U Mask, Amherst?


Usually there would be thousands of students in the area but each school has significantly

scaled back or basically gone fully Zoom for pandemic academics.  Amherst feels like a sleepy 

college town with the iconic brew-pub (temporarily closed), art-house cinema (temporarily closed),

quirky restaurant-Judie's popovers (temporarily closed), artisanal ice cream shop (permanently 

closed), university museums https://www.carlemuseum.org (temporarily closed)  and 14 Asian 

restaurants within a 3 block radius. We have no idea if it really is sleepy or if it is just because there 

are essentially no students here yet. Can't imagine what it will be like when the 27,000 students 

return (who knows when).  Not sure if we are consistent with the town slogan yet, but we have no idea what it means. 


A month ago, it was uncertain what was going to happen with the return of the students.  Even 

with that uncertainty, housing is limited and expensive in Amherst and very hard to find anything 

without a year's lease.  From Oregon, we briefly FaceTimed with a potential landlord, felt

former-Californian connection and basically jumped in blind. We rarely learn from our past 

experiences, we did buy our house in Eugene from the internet.  


So our basement "garden studio", is located in a corner of a basement of a house (promising path to our 

entrance)


Immediately outside our room door, which doesn't fully close, are the stairs to the rest of the house.

Our room came with a futon and a college-dorm-style mini fridge. Patricia thought it was 

fine except for the bed and fridge, which is all it had. 

No kitchen, there is a sink but it is on the other side of the basement, next to the bathroom.   

We get there by traversing your typical basement décor of dust,  spiders, unidentifiable bugs that 

may or may not bite, boxes, dusty unwanted furniture, forgotten tools, paint cans, rugs, mattresses, water 

heater, roll of left over insulation, fuse box, an extremely large oil heating tank and  fireplace accessories. 


As with all traditional New England houses the washer and dryer are in the basement and for us, 

they are right outside our bathroom. Everyone upstairs comes downstairs to do their laundry. 

So we mask up to go wash ourselves or our dishes.  It's all rather awkward, even for us. 

We have called upon our experiences; our own and daughters' time in college combined with our

Eastern European Air BnB stays to create our home.  Added madras-like bedspreads on the wall, 

a microwave, electric teapot  updated the dorm fridge (they now come with separate freezer!) 

and an insta-pot (we are trying to learn new things).    


So we plugged in the yogurt maker and tortilla press and it now feels (almost) like home. Our hovel. Our buried treasure.


Didn't think we would ever long for some of our more challenging accommodations in Europe,

but this basement has been able to do so. The ambience is further enhanced by the 24 hour background 

buzz of three fans, an air purifier and a de-humidfier (which almost drowns out the cicada) as they fight 

and lose the daily battle against the heat and humidity. .

The air is so thick, it feels like you are covered with double stick tape collecting sweat and bugs, 

bugs significantly larger then our west coast ones.  The ants are the size of dachshunds and the 

sow bugs are clad in Viking armor. 

The humidity also boosts the growth of trees, vines and grass and this verdant growth would be  

be really beautiful if the fear of ticks and Lyme disease had not redefined our definition of an 

attractive landscape.We look forward to  summer storms to ease the heat and have been 

rewarded with one tropical storm and two tornado warnings. 

Fortunately, we did not need to run to the basement since that is where we are living. 

Eastern Standard Time is not just a terrible weather time zone, it is terrible for the start of baseball

games and catching up on news.  We have a new respect for anyone who has lived on the 

East Coast. 

Our days, though, are full and make us happy to be here.  


                 
           

We have made a lot of day trips to the Target and Whole Foods parking lots for curbside pick-ups,

and have explored a new Trader Joe's (consistently handling COVID well).  We’ve walked past the 

Emily Dickinson house, and her grave, both of which are the crown tourist jewels of Amherst.  


We learned about the town's rich history through the mural at Emily's cemetery.

We sat with Emily and Robert Frost (another long time resident). 

We strolled through many neighborhoods, one consistent with the town's emphasis on poetry (not just Emily and Robert but 

Edward Field author of Winken, Blinken and Nod was another Amherstian). 

We walked through the historic neighborhood of Holyoke (birthplace of volleyball), but missed the

canals there (we missed Italy and Venice canals too)  There was a trip to the DMV (called RMV here for Registry 

of Motor Vehicles) in Springfield (birthplace of basketball) for Alivia to renew her license plus a stop and see 

dinosaur footprints.


 

We went to a Covid drive-by quilt show in cute Easthampton, or maybe it was laundry day. 

A trip along a little river (why does everyone pile rocks in the universal Girl Scout sign for 

danger?) https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/travel/rock-stone-stacking-hiking-cairns/2020/08/27/3059a9c8-e70d-11ea-970a-64c73a1c2392_story.html?hpid=hp_travel-right-4-0_travel-latest-feed%3Ahomepage%2Fstory-ans,



led to Puffer Pond.



We have seen groundhogs (unfortunately one ate all our unripe tomatoes), chipmunks, bunnies, 

squirrels, a ton of really beautiful birds. No bears yet but others have reported sightings in town. 


What's next? More sweating and waiting until we can complain about the cold.  

We are effectively trapped in Massachusetts. Canada is closed. With our Oregon car plates, surrounding 

states are off limits. So we are (desperately) pretending that we are in Europe still as this old town, first 

documented in 1658 and incorporated in 1759, shares many characteristics with some of our 

favorite places in Europe. 


The classic town hall with clock tower

Old quirky cemeteries located  in the center of town, 

and in parking lots.


A  busy town square, not as picturesque as a German "Platz", but consistent with the Yiddish  "plotz" which makes

sense as the Yiddish Book Center is located here https://www.yiddishbookcenter.org

Churches with beautiful stained windows,  punctuate the sunset 



But reality sets in.  Tornado warnings, tropical storms, toll roads, Target pick ups, terrible time zone, no right turns 

on red, thousands of college students potentially ready to descend on the town constantly remind us that

we are here in New England, USA.