Rijeka
* see part 1Rijeka, the last Istrian Peninsula trilogy stop, is yet another Croatian port-town with Roman ruins, Venetian influences, daily Farmer's Market and old city charm. But, for some reason, to us, Rijeka just felt right.
There were dilapidated buildings, neglected buildings,
and graffiti,
There were industrial beaches
and cranes, the national bird of Croatia.
But there were also beautiful buildings and unique churches;
a massive daily Farmer's Market;
an immaculate-limestone paved pedestrian shopping area (Korzo) plus nice street art;
and interesting ruins (ancient bus stop?).
We were probably influenced by being there for the opening of the Christmas Market. The highlight of the market was the Rijeka tunnel specially decorated for Christmas. Originally, created by the Italian military in 1939 as subterranean bomb shelters. These solid rock tunnels are almost 400 meters long from St. Vitus Church to Dolac Primary School in Old Town. Last year after being closed for 75 years, they were reopened as a tourist attraction. Advertised as opened daily, we tried to visit on our first tour of the town, but were told to come back on Saturday. On Saturday we were told to come back that night at 7 pm, it was worth the wait. The tunnel was decked out in rainbow lights and snowflakes, families strolled through, children laughing and playing. There were pop up bars for drinks and holiday snack shacks. In a country that has been constantly recreated through repeated strife and turmoil, on the eve of Advent it seemed fitting to have a former bomb shelter reborn full of Christmas joy.
We really enjoyed walking through them.
We exited the tunnel onto the Korzo to find (what felt like) the whole city enjoying the Christmas Market and dancing to La Bamba and the Macarena.This week's photo of topless old man looking out window contemplating his life "woulda, coulda, shoulda" the topless old man Trilogy.
