Back to our home away from home, Saarbrucken, to spend a week with A, W, I and Finn and then a week dog-sitting Finn while they went off to a conference in Greece.
Known for its hiking/biking trails, cuckoo clocks, and black forest cherry chocolate cake, we sampled none of these,staying consistent with our travel philosophy. We kept our walking within city limits, which did include a few forest paths, and somehow saw only a few clocks and cakes. We did see a lot of hikers and bikers and mostly kids on field trips. One inspired group of young adults was already drinking beers on the bus at 9 am on their way to Titisee.
At times we couldn't see the forest for the trees but that's because there were lots of tunnels- the darkness alternating with forest, farmland, and towns with quaint half-timber and ornately decorated buildings (must look like perfect snow globe towns in the wintertime) We visited 4 of these towns in the area, Gengenbach, Donaueschingen, Titisee and Freiburg ending up in Zurich, Switzerland.
Walking into Gengenbach felt like walking into a postcard.
It is known for its town hall becoming a giant advent calendar in December with each window opening to a new nativity scene for 24 days.
Since it was July, we settled for watching the stork nest and college kids downing 24 river-chilled beers.
It is known for its town hall becoming a giant advent calendar in December with each window opening to a new nativity scene for 24 days.
taken from German travel site |
Donaueschingen is famous for being the source of the Danube River (Donauquelle).
This in not without controversy as the Danube is formed by the confluence of two streams the Brigach and the Breg. So hydrologically speaking (which we never have, except a few words), the source of the Danube is the source of the Breg which arises near Furtwangen. This was a source of dispute for 30 years between the two towns until the state government granted Donaueschingen to be the Donauquelle. Essentially saying "Damn youb Furtwangen"! Pardon my hydrologic.
Anyway we saw the spring that claims to be the origin and its fancy monument where everyone takes selfies,
This in not without controversy as the Danube is formed by the confluence of two streams the Brigach and the Breg. So hydrologically speaking (which we never have, except a few words), the source of the Danube is the source of the Breg which arises near Furtwangen. This was a source of dispute for 30 years between the two towns until the state government granted Donaueschingen to be the Donauquelle. Essentially saying "Damn youb Furtwangen"! Pardon my hydrologic.
Anyway we saw the spring that claims to be the origin and its fancy monument where everyone takes selfies,
and finally we walked through the Furstenberg park to the confluence of the two rivers, more exciting but less photogenic,
Breg on left and Brigach on the right combine to create the Danube under the bridge |
Now we have seen the start, roughly the middle (https://thechosenfugue.blogspot.com/2019/07/the-budapest-marathon.html and end of the Danube (https://thechosenfugue.blogspot.com/2019/06/delta-takes-flight.html).
Donaueschingen was a draw though even without it's claim to fame as the birthplace of the Danube. It was the hardest German city name to pronounce for us, had nice public art and buildings
It is the home of Furstenberg brewery (beer not very good) and the home of the Furstenberg family whose lands make up the huge city park.
City mini-golf -beergarden in the Furstenberg park |
Titisee (sadly, not pronounced as it looks) was a quick one hour stop to peek at the touristy town and the lake. We declined the rundfahrt (watch it, its just German for tour, we love German).
Freiburg im Breisgau was the highlight of our Black Forest Rundfahrt. Right away, we loved it and wanted to move there. A college town known for its emphasis on environmental sustainability. We immediately fell into a climate change protest march and were invited to join in.
The college, located in the beautiful old town area, was vibrant and hippy-esque felt like Berkeley.
The center piece of the town was the majestic Cathedral which also happen to have a wonderful diverse, popular farmer’s market occurring in the surrounding square.
The center piece of the town was the majestic Cathedral which also happen to have a wonderful diverse, popular farmer’s market occurring in the surrounding square.
they even had a marbles stand |
Just total good vibes and while it had everything a good German town has, it had it in troves
Freiburg had it's own quirky twists; little streams flowing through gutters called Bachle used for cooling and fun, small wooden boats for sale throughout town ( special editions issued each year),
street cobblestone mosaics identifying a type of store or honoring someone/something (sister city)
half timbered McDonald's |
beautiful Starbucks buildings |
uniquely German stores |
River Dreisam through town, not sure why it was red |
Geranium filled window boxes on beautiful buildings |
Memorial to destroyed synagogues-a fountain placed in the footprint of the synagogue destroyed on Kristallnacht (very striking ) |
Stolpersteine every few feet throughout the city (https://thechosenfugue.blogspot.com/2019/01/they-do-make-you-stumble.html ) |
Freiburg had it's own quirky twists; little streams flowing through gutters called Bachle used for cooling and fun, small wooden boats for sale throughout town ( special editions issued each year),
street cobblestone mosaics identifying a type of store or honoring someone/something (sister city)
We wrapped up our blitz through the forest in Zurich to meet up with A, W and I plus Finn for two days although most of it was spent hanging in the hotel room with a feverish pink-eyed little girl. But thankfully we had a window that overlooked the train station for some pretty exciting afternoons.
Can't say much about Zurich since our walkabout was limited to a few streets but it was pleasant and rather neutral, just like Switzerland
but we did get to meet a unicorn.
Zurich 7/22/19. Swiss Cheese shirt fulfills it's dream of seeing Switzerland before it expires. RIP |
This week's photo of topless old man looking out window contemplating his life...Robe time, so move along, nothing to Titisee here
" a conference in Greece" - living the life!
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